METClean E

Who the E is for

The E is the entry point to cabinet DPF cleaning for car and light commercial vehicle workshops. It cleans the filters you would otherwise send away or replace, in your own workshop, inside a closed cabinet with closed-loop water and an automatic wash sequence.

Control is analogue: clear switches on the front panel rather than a touchscreen. That keeps the E quick to learn and easy to run alongside other work, and it is why the E is the lower-cost way into cabinet cleaning. It suits a garage that wants to bring cleaning in-house without paying for automation it won’t use.

The E is designed for budget-conscious buyers who install it themselves. MET supports the set-up remotely, with instructional videos and onboarding, and if you’d rather we fitted it and trained your team on site, both are available at extra cost.

What the E leaves out is as important as what it does. There is no pressure pre-test, no printed record and no heated drying, so the evidence you give a customer comes from your own inspection and notes. If that evidence is part of how you sell cleaning, look at the S.

• Truck, bus, plant and agricultural filters, which need the larger working space of the XL Multi+.
• Cleaning from a van. The E is a workshop machine; the V is designed around a vehicle installation.
• Workshops that want a measured before-and-after reading and a printout for every job.
• Filters that are cracked, melted or otherwise damaged. Cleaning removes ash and soot; it doesn’t repair a substrate.

METClean S

You want an automatic programme on a touchscreen, a pressure pre-test, a printed before-and-after record and heated drying in the cabinet.

METClean V

You run a mobile service and want to clean filters off the vehicle from a van rather than on a workshop floor.

METClean DPF Lite

You clean occasionally, space is tight, and a bench machine makes more sense than a cabinet.

Filters it takes

The E is built for diesel particulate filters from cars and vans, the filters most garages see every week. The filter stands on the platform inside the cabinet and connects to the stainless braided wash hose at its outlet through an adaptor, so water runs through it against the normal exhaust direction rather than around it.

Most common filters connect with a suitable adaptor. A filter that still has pipes or sensor cables attached has those secured before it goes in. If you work on a particular make or an unusual shape, bring one to a demonstration and we’ll check how it fits.

Vehicle and filter classes

Car and Van

Other component types

DPF, GPF, CAT, Intercooler, Radiator and EGR

The component types below come from MET’s approved record for the E. Ask us about a specific part before you rely on cleaning it.

A normal job, start to finish

The sequence below follows the E operating instructions. Wash length is adjustable on the control panel; MET’s recommended settings are covered in training.

1. Check the machine. Power and compressed air connected, the tank full and the machine on level ground. The filter shouldn’t be heavily contaminated with oil or coolant before it goes in.
2. Inspect the filter. Look for cracks, melting or oil soaking, which mean the filter needs replacing rather than cleaning. Then work out its exhaust flow direction: the E washes from the outlet side.
3. Connect the adaptor. Fit the adaptor that seals to the filter outlet, secure any pipes and cables, and clamp it to the braided wash hose.
4. Strap it down. Stand the filter on the platform and secure it with the restraint straps so it can’t move while water is running. Check it before you close the door.
5. Start the wash. Press the start button. The E runs its sequence automatically: a prewash, the main wash and a high-pressure impact stage, with the door closed throughout.
6. Clear the water. At the end of the wash the machine blows compressed air through the filter to push out standing water. The dry button runs further air-only drying if it’s needed.
7. Finish and refit. Lift the filter out and note what you cleaned for your customer. Some filters need their final drying on the vehicle after refitting.

How many filters you clean in a day depends on the wash length you set, how blocked each filter is and how quickly the next one is ready to load. Cycle duration isn’t published while MET confirms measured profiles, so plan capacity with us using your own job mix rather than a headline number.

Drying is the part to plan around. Air-only drying depends on your compressor’s capacity and flow, and a heavily saturated filter may need to finish on the vehicle with a driving cycle, which affects how soon the car can leave.

Wash, purge, refit

What the E does at each stage, and where it stops so you know what to expect.

Control

Analogue switches on the front panel start and stop the wash and set its length. There are no programmes to choose between, which keeps training short.Analogue

Loading

The filter is held by restraint straps rather than a pneumatic ram, so the operator checks it is secure before every wash.Manual strap restraint

Cleaning

An automatic prewash, wash and high-pressure impact sequence through the filter against the exhaust direction. Ash and soot leave with the water and go into the machine’s filtration.

Drying

A cold compressed-air purge clears standing water. There is no heated drying, and some filters need finishing on the vehicle.Cold air purge

Records

The E has no pressure pre-test or printout. Record the filter, the job and what you saw at inspection yourself; the S adds measured readings and a printed record.